Eschewing all colours for the soothing neutrality of black, Didit Hediprasetyo taps into the creative depths of this particular tone and reveals the confident playfulness hidden within. For Spring-Summer 2016, he highlights structural silhouette, the keystone that is at once the beginning and da coda of feminine style.
Playful lines and exquisite construction come forward through textural play, where the rich fluidity of silk jersey is anchored by the supple strength of lambskin, where light reflects on the crocodile’s scales to better match the sumptuousness of flowing velvet. Corset boning is evoked in the lines of a bodice, highlighting graceful posture. Black offers its depth to accentuate every aspect of construction, and confirms the essential nature of this collection.
The collection offers an effortless mien and bold, contrasting youthful cuts presented in a monochrome palette. Playful shorts are paired with a corset top in leather. A flash of skin appears at the waist, framed in an asymmetric cut in a demure knee-length dress. Floor-length full skirts convey stature and poise, while leather brings a contemporary edge to short and sweet dresses.
Anklets by Heaven Tanudiredja complete the collection’s lithe silhouettes, articulating the rhythms of virtue. Like a shadow puppet, the rich darkness highlights the precious craftsmanship, forming a wordless and universal ode to couture and tantalizing femininity.
Manifestations of movement – be it Degas’ regal ladies in velvet, leather favored by rock royalty or the exuberance of Songket evoking the richness of Shiva, Lord of the dance – create a modern Apsara whose every gesture is imbued with significance. The couturier’s skill in construction is the revelator that draws out the characteristics inspired by the exalted craftsmanship of ballet costume creation, where, regardless of style and period, each and every garment is created with fluidity of movement in mind.